Travel brought Rachel Davey and Martina Sebova together. Almost 15 years ago, the two women met on a 49-day overland tour of Europe.
Rachel, from Victoria, was an on-road chef for a group of young Australians, and Martina, from Slovakia, was a tour guide. Both were hungry to see the world.
“We both seek those kinds of jobs overseas where we could do what we loved, which was travel,” Rachel, 42, says.
“Both Marty and I have worked in different areas of the travel industry, but that was the one where we met, and we did that for a long time.”
Then they fell in love.
Rachel and Martina in Aleppo, Syria. Source: Supplied / Rachel Davey
The couple has always chosen to intersperse work with travel to see as much of the world as they could, and by 2016 they had visited 100 countries.
“It wasn’t really planned; it just sort of happened, and we were super proud and excited,” Martina, 41, says.
“We also thought that we could just settle down, 9 to 5, and live normal lives.”
Friends often asked them if anyone had ever visited every country in the world, so one day, while living in Melbourne, they did some digging.
From what they could find online, fewer than 200 people then – and fewer than 300 today – had travelled to every country in the world, and less than 10 per cent are women.
“We were really shocked by that,” Martina says.
“We decided to stay in Melbourne, work, save and plan our departure to finalise the countries we haven’t visited – and add more women to the list.”
They set off with 88 countries to go.
Travelling as friends or sisters
According to Human Dignity Trust, an international organisation that defends the human rights of LGBTIQ+ people, 68 jurisdictions around the world criminalise private, consensual, same-sex activity.
This includes 32 jurisdictions in Africa, 22 in Asia, seven in the Caribbean and the Americas and seven in the Pacific. The majority of these jurisdictions explicitly criminalise sex between men, and 42 between women.
It meant Martina and Rachel had a decision to make if they didn’t want them being a couple to pose a risk in certain countries.
Source: SBS News / Ken Macleod
As a result, like they’d done on previous trips together, they chose not to disclose their relationship.
“From our previous travels, we were already used to travelling as a couple, but understanding that in certain countries, we cannot disclose that,” Martina says.
“So it wasn’t a major challenge for us to go out there and see the world, knowing that … essentially we’ll both be travelling as two friends [or] sisters. It’s something we were very familiar with.”
The couple says their decision not to disclose their relationship was based on safety, and cultural differences around being gay.
“It was that personal safety that, really, everyone should consider, regardless. That was the focus,” Martina says.
Rachel and Martina visit the Pyramids of Meroe, Sudan. Source: Supplied / Rachel Davey
Rachel says it is important to respect the rules of another country, even if they differ from your own.
“If you visit another country, you may not agree or wish to go along with the rules, but you must respect them, and we do, because there are consequences if you do break them.”
“And you have to understand that going in.”
You may not agree or wish to go along with the rules, but you must respect them.
– Rachel Davey
But that approach doesn’t always sit well when you’re living through it.
“While you can choose to not drink in a country because alcohol is banned, or you can choose to cover up visiting certain countries that are more conservative … I think the biggest challenge is that who you are is who you are,” Martina says.
“It doesn’t change. You are still that person.”
A challenge in Saudi Arabia
Throughout their travels, Martina says they would act as best friends “because that’s how we interact with each other”.
“The only choice you have to make is when you’re checking into a hotel, what kind of room type you’re going to ask for.”
“Most of the time, because we are two women, most places actually don’t question it.”
Both Martina and Rachel acknowledge the situation could be more difficult for two men.
Their experience was different in Saudi Arabia, which is among the countries that criminalise same-sex sexual activity. The gender expression of trans people is also criminalised.
There, Martina and Rachel struggled to obtain visas.
Rachel and Martina visit Chefchaouen, Morocco. Source: Supplied / Rachel Davey
“On paper, we were two single, unmarried women without a man or a family member, and we were told you can’t get a visa based on that,” Martina says.
“I think it was in the back of our minds knowing ‘this is a country with a harsh stance’ – not just when it comes to rights we take for granted, but an entire spectrum of other rights and recognition around women in public spaces.”
She says in certain countries, they felt more visible being women rather than being gay.
Favourite countries
It was across Europe – from Amsterdam to Sweden – as well as Southeast Asia, where Rachel says the couple felt most comfortable being themselves.
“I think in those countries, you can be who you want to be.”
They say they found incredible food in Georgia, and beauty in Ethiopia, while Thailand, Italy and Mexico were also high on their favourites list.
“We always say those are the countries where you can spend months and there’s just so much to see and do,” Martina says.
“And we are driven by food – that’s why they call us the ‘Very Hungry Nomads’!” she adds, referring to the name they have documented their travels under online.
Reaching 195 countries
On 19 November, Rachel and Martina reached Samoa – the final stop on their mission.
Together, they have travelled to 195 countries recognised by the United Nations including 193 member states and two non-member states; the Holy See (Vatican City) and Palestine.
They believe this makes Rachel the first Australian woman, and Martina the first Slovakian woman, to do so. SBS News has not been able to verify this.
Rachel and Martina say the focus of their story was never meant to be about them being a couple, but they’ve decided to now share their relationship with the world in the hope that it might help others.
“Showing people from all aspects of life and in all parts of the world, and normalising same-sex couples doing things in wider society, is a [important] message,” Martina says.
“Especially for those who are teenagers or young kids coming [to terms] with who they are.”
“Hopefully there’s a bit of inspiration and they find some connection with that as well.”
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The Australian Government’s provides advice for LGBTI travellers.
LGBTIQ+ Australians seeking support with mental health can contact QLife on 1800 184 527 or visit . also has a list of support services.
